Things Going Well for Market with a Well for the Market

Weather— mostly cloudy the past few days, but with little rain. Today (Saturday) starts off partly cloudy with morning temps in the 70s. Light breeze under 5mph from the west. Total rain this past week about an inch.

During the wet season, life and expectations slow. The steady heavy rains and flooding delay arrivals, causes events to be postponed or cancelled, and generally doubles or triples the amount of time it takes to get things done. So even though we have had a dry week, because heavy rains could return any minute, life slows down. Over at MPCHS, Grace will make no trips into the bush, so I won’t see Todee or Johnson Town for a while. And we are in summer break, so the college is in a quieter mode. Renita is in the middle of the fifth LEAD class, but even that is rather routine with the curriculum fully “in the can,” and no longer under development. So we are seeing more of each other.

Around Foster Town, the new market has attracted attention from the community and beyond, and there are still factions jockeying for control and individuals trying to manipulate the process for personal gain, but FACT (Foster Town Association for Community Transformation) is showing firm resolve to run the market fairly. The FACT leaders are struggling to figure out how to remain focused in the midst of disruptive elements passing rumors and falsehoods about them. Like Nehemiah, the Hebrew who rebuilt Jerusalem in postwar Israel, it seems as though the community leaders need to fight off enemies with one hand while they build with the other. But building they are. As I write, a new Lifewater well for the market sponsored by FACT is almost completed.

It’s the weekend, so Yers Trooly is the chef for today and tomorrow. We eat Liberian Monday through Friday, and return to “home cooking” Saturday and Sunday. Today its chips n’ chili. Tomorrow, barbeque wings with baked potatoes and canned green beans. Feel free to join us. We’ll save you a plate.

The Lifewater Liberia arrives to sink the new market well.

It's sinking!

Under the zinc in the market, the women are busy.

This gives you a sense of where the well lies compared to the market. Actually, out house is in a direct line over the well, about two hundred yards in that direction.

We haven't mentioned much about HIV and AIDS while here, but it poses a serious threat to Liberia's future. Sister Barbara Brillant, dean at the Mother Patern College of Health Science predicts that HIV-AIDS, if not addressed, will be worse on Liberia than the fifteen year civil war. Every major international organization seems to be attempting to address it, each from a particular perspective. It is unknown how many in Liberia are HIV positive, but estimates suggests as much as 12% of the population may be infected. Every year about 7000 Liberians die from the effects of the virus. A nurse at a local hospital tells us 2 in 10 women coming in to deliver their babies are testing positive for HIV.

Renita and are are just begining to find places where we can bring ourselves into the HIV-AIDS battle. I have been providing consultation to HIV-AIDS counselors at the hospital and the HIV-AIDS program at MPCHS, and just recently Renita landed a contract on behalf of LEAD with the UN's World Food Programme. The WFP is providing microbusiness loans to women infected with HIV. Renita will be providing the business training and support.

Like everything else, it's a few drops of water in a dry land. But when all you have is a couple of eye-droppers, it's the only way to go. And who knows? if enough of us show up with eye-droppers, we may be able to fill a bucket.

ReedNews Update

Weather: Very heavy rains all day Friday the 13th. Local flooding. Approximately 5 inches of rain fallen as of 1:00pm. Temps in the mid 70’s. Light wind from the southwest.

The rainy season is here, but it has been generally kind to us. Since July 1, we have only had two stretches of rain falling for more than 18 hours without let up—although if it rains 24 out of 36 hours like early this week, it seems like steady rain the whole time. Today it has been very heavy with flooding, and everyone is hoping it stops soon. I took some shots on the way into town for you.

In the News--
Item-- The honeymoon is over for the Johnson-Sirleaf administration, with charges of corruption and political infighting abounding in the sensationalist gossip rags they call newspapers. At times the president’s fight against corruption has turned violent; the other day the Liberian National Police were fighting the Freeport Police because the Freeport Police were supposedly diverting petrol shipments. Indeed Monrovia was “out of gas” this week for a couple days—the few stations with gas were charging almost US$5.00 a gallon.

Item-- We continue to see signs of upcoming major infrastructure development. Not far from us, a massive buildup of road working equipment has begun. The equipment is Chinese, and I’m told the Chinese own the contract to widen and completely resurface Robertsfield highway, which is the road from the airport to Monrovia, and about a hundred and fifty yards from our house. So I’m thinking they’ll start in October.

Item—The market is open, with about twenty women selling their wares, and more signing up each day. You can buy foo-foo, greens, turkey, pig meat, cow meat, kitali, bitter ball, pepper, spices, beans, as well as soap, some clothes and flip-flops. It still has a long way to go to compete with the market a couple miles down the road, but its coming. “Small-small.”

Item—It is heartbreaking to have to report this, but we returned to discover that the pangolin died while we were away. It apparently found a home in a place that it could not back out of, and by the time our friends found it, three days had passed. I’ve never seen a more inoffensive, gentle creature, and I’m still sad about the loss. But I got the message. We will no longer support the practice of bringing in protected creatures from the bush to sell to missionary types. We thought we were rescuing creatures like the monkey and the pangolin. What we were actually doing was encouraging an illegal and destructive trade.

Item—Hannah begins her first job next week—secretary to the principal of the local school—Christ’s Friend Children Academy. The school can’t pay her of course, so Renita will be appealing to her father and uncles to chip in to augment her salary. Why we are only appealing to her uncles, I don’t know. Renita said it just seemed like an “uncle thing.”

The ladies at the new market showing their stuff. More merchants coming.

On the way into Monrovia this morning. The work does not stop, and these guys hauling planks in a wheel barrow are two of thousands doing their thing in the deluge.

Streets in town flooding. This sight is not at all unusual during this time of year.

Neighbors homes flooding as everyone waits it out.
Back home, Max licks Grace-- "Hey-- she tastes like venison!"Last night before the rains, pets gather at day's end to munch turkey bones and discuss ways to show the humans how to get along.

The Foster Town Market-- A Dream Realized

Weather: partly sunny and humid most days this week, with heavy, steady rain most nights. Saturday, rain throughout the early morning and morning hours, with wind. Rain cleared by late morning, just in time for the afternoon market dedication. Temps mid 80s during the day, 70s overnight. Winds 10-15 mph, mostly from the west, although shifting and out of the east during the day Saturday. No clue as to weather Sunday.

If you have been keeping up with us, you know our community, Foster Town, is trying to build a market. The attempt is an expression of the desire of the entire community through its new community development organization, FACT. (Formerly FoCDA, FACT stands for Foster Town Association for Community Transformation.) Currently neighborhood women need to travel several miles to the nearest market, and carry back large bundles the entire way or pay for increasingly expensive taxis. There are almost no Liberian car owners in the community. The market would create a much more convenient location for perhaps thousands of community folks saving precious time and money, and provide micro business opportunities for about ninety neighbors who would sell their goods here.

The Foster Town marketplace was first proposed last summer, with groundbreaking taking place in December. We all hoped it would be up by April, but longstanding distrust and control issues emerged, halting construction for March and April. In May, opposing sides began coming together so by the time the Reeds left for North America, the roof was mostly up, and the FACT market committee was taking names and reserving spaces for market tables.

When we arrived back to Liberia, the good news was waiting for us. The market place had its tables, the community would celebrate its dedication July 7 and it would open for business July 9.

As I write this July 7, we just returned from the dedication. Compared to most Americans, Liberians make a huge deal out these things. There were speeches and rallies, and songs and hoopla in a program that lasted hours. I thought I'd try to leave early, but the joy and delight of the women was infectious. I hung around and eventually figured out how to keep myself occupied.

On Monday, the market opens for business. Those are the pictures I’m waiting to take.

In December at the ground breaking, the field was nothing but palm stumps and brush. But we were committed.

In January, some support poles went up, and the women inspected a much more clear field.

In February, the community pulled together to dig up stumps and burn the rest of the brush.

But factions were growing. We spent a lot of time trying to make space for conflict to happen safely and trust to grow.

By March, the work was halted while the conflict played itself out. But by May...

...construction resumed. Through hard efforts of all involved work began again and we saw zinc going up. This was how it looked when we left for North America.

And this is how it looked when we returned. Tables up, ready for the dedication. What a moment. What a victory.

Saturday, July 7, under the zinc. Let the Celebration begin! Dancing, singing, speechifying, laughing and praising God.
Renita, a guest of honor, has a few profound words from Ecclesiastes and thanks our American friends, Mary and Ev Vermeer for their generous support in making the market possible.
Local pastor and friend Rev Odashi cuts the ribbon, opening the market.
Afterword, the women dance in celebration. Yers Trooly could not help himself-- to the delight of the crowd he jumped in and showed 'em he had a few moves of his own.

SPLASHDOWN! And Return to Home Sweat Home

Weather: Partly Cloudy and dry this morning after four days of almost continuous rain. Rain since we arrived Sunday night: approximately six inches. Daytime temps when sunny mid 80s, when cloudy upper 70's. Night time temps mid 60's

We splashed down at Lake Robertsfield International Airport at 5:00pm Sunday. It took us an hour to finally get out: the customs official tried to shake us down for the $150.00 printer we brought in for non-profit use. After getting nowhere for $50.00, she let us pass, then asked us for "something small." This is the first time airport officials have tried to shake us down in a while, but it is not a good sign. It indicates that after an initial crackdown on this kind of stuff, things may be getting slimy again. We'll let you know.

We got home at around 8:00pm and here it is Tuesday already and we are still trying to get organized. The battery on the car is dead, and there are some signs of wear and tear on the house since we left, but otherwise it feels like home. One of our dogs, Jackie, finally died from her congenital digestive disorder, banded crows got all our chicks, and the pig busted up the pen and the neighbors had to do some repair work that cost us some limbs off our mango trees. Temps are cool, although I still sweat if I do any work at all. Working to get the car up and running in the rain and my own sweat was a trip.

They tell us the area has been hammered by four days of non-stop steady rain. Everywhere there are new potholes, swamps, flooded areas, giant puddles, and people hanging stuff out to dry.

It is good to be back to Liberian normal.

Our last pic from the US of A--- some our our faithful pals seeing us off. Mary Vermuelen with daughters Anneka(sp?) and Abbey(sp? I know I'm bad) and our "home base managers" Janette and Dale Vanderveen.
Home to puddles-- our street heading out to the main road.
This pond was a soccer field when we left. Come January, it shall be again.
The main road to the city. Folks drying laundry and tarps in the brief respite from the rains.

Preparing to Return to Africa

Tis Tuesday the 26th, and our flight to Monrovia (via Atlanta then Brussels) is Saturday. Its been a packed month, and we are ready to get back to Africa. People have been incredibly generous. A list of a few of the people we owe more than we can repay:

Kris and Nate Vanderstelt-- Put us up in their guest house for almost three weeks. The pool was Brrrrrrisk.

Norm and Mary Katerberg-- Threw a welcome party for us. Norm, even while living with a brain tumor-- grilled the meat. Always there for us. Norm visited us in Liberia last year.

Warren and Joanne Boer-- My mentor and friend. Key players in my life for almost twenty years. Would not be in Liberia if not for them.

Janette and Dale Vanderveen-- No one has served us more in the last ten years. They are our anchors here. Janette, Renita's sister, handles all our US affairs.

Henry and Marnie Kranenburg-- Pastor Kranenburg of partner church Emmanuel CRC, Renita's brother, and hosts. Henry visited us in April.

Pete and Marrie Kranenberg-- Renita's folks, and actively involved in getting others involved in the rebuilding of Liberia. Marrie has visited us twice, Pete once.

Lucille and Keith Mosher--- My mom and step-dad. She makes pies and potato salad. I make her cry.

Ev and Mary Vermeer-- Mary visited us in March and is always coming up with ideas on behalf of the people of Liberia. Ev is a sage and co-founder of the Nehemiah-Liberia Group, LEAD's US partner. (NLG)

Tom and Mary Steenwyk-- These old pals took Noah in for about two weeks of our stay. Gave him such a good time with sons Matt, Sam and Ben, he may not want to return with us.

Mary and Dave Vermuelen-- I've known Mary since she was a student at Calvin, Renita and she are old friends, and her daughter Anneke is Hannah's longest known and dearest friend. Hannah hung out at their place for a few days.

Pat and Perry Holden-- Hannah's other pal, Abbey, was her host a few other nights. They couldn't stop laughing.

Mary and Ron VanValkenberg-- part of the NLG, "Dr. Van" has visited Liberia at least twice and has provided a huge amount of supprt-- including our famous but ill-fated generator, the "VV 9500." Let us use their vehicle while here.

Judy King-- A long time supporter of Liberia, has been there a few times with late husband and friend Steve. Also let us use her vehicle.

Dave and Paula Graf-- Could not have made the trip without them. Dave is an idea-machine who works with the NLG.

Lloyd and Pat Cain-- Gave us three days of Bliss up in their summer home.

The folks at CRWRC and PWW: Mary Dykstra, Andy Ryskamp, Lou Haveman, and Ruth Majawa.

Last week at Renita's folks. Renita talking with sister Liz as Mom and Pop K look on.

After visiting her folks, and with Bliss just behind us, we head to Lake City for a gathering of my relatives.

Brothers Steve, Don and Bryan, sister Sandy with Mom behind us all-- as always.

We're outa here! Next stop Liberia!

Bliss

For the past three days our travels have taken us to the northernmost part of Michigan's Lower Peninsula. We spent the time at our uncle's summer home near the tiny Emmet County community of Bliss. Bliss is where my maternal grandmother and grandfather lived and are buried, where my father is buried, and where in my youth I spent every summer. It has become the most evocative place on earth for me, somewhere I cannot go without remembering the past with tears and reflecting on my life and what it all means. I stand on the pavement of Valley Road-- it was a dirt road forty years ago when I was twelve-- still feel the same cool breezes off Lake Michigan a couple miles West, and here so little has changed. The air is still fresh and clean. The skies are deep blue and crystal clear. Consumerism and technology have not scarred the land or people too much yet. I think: "Here is one place in America I could someday live."

Yesterday, I took the kids to "downtown Bliss." One store, one old schoolhouse and the cemetery. I visited the store, reveled in the wood floor boards and cramped feeling, and chatted with the storekeeper. She knew our grandparents and remembered our family. We wondered together where time had gone, and why they stopped making Frostie root beer, the best root beer in the history of the world.

So this morning we left Bliss, and headed south to meet up with my side of the family. As we drove down Valley Road, I wanted to make sure the kids experienced "Ticklebelly Hill," a dip in the road so severe that when traversed at sufficient velocity, one can experience temporary zero-G. It was a "must event" when I was a kid, and we always begged whoever was driving to floor it. As the hill approached, I made sure I had reached the appropriate speed. We braced for weightlessness and the sensation of our bellies being tickled.

Not much happened. It was a sensory and an existential dissappointment. Ticklebelly Hill was nothing more that a barely notable bump. In paving the road, the highway guys graded the tickle right out of the hill. I was sad because in the place of memories it meant a memory not available for reliving. So something has changed over the years in Bliss, and like in Liberia and everywhere, progress came with a price. It was sad, but ok. The sky was blue as ever, the air as clean and crisp as it was forty years ago. Throughout our stay in North America we've been saying everything is the same, but everything is different. In Bliss, some things have changed, but nothing has.

Some Shots that Never Made It

We are in the midst of our North American journey of meeting, greeting and eating. I cannot believe how much food is available, and everybody loves to see us eat. Like I need it. Not that I'm really complaining. We are spending time with the people who love us most, people who have been with us throughout our time in West Africa. So it is "busy-o plenty but a good good tie."

But I miss Liberia.

I can't believe I'm saying it, but I do. I miss the simplicity-- the basic, uncomplicated but daily struggle of our neighbors and friends. I miss rubbing shoulders with people who have little more than some rice and their souls to share. In Liberia, my life just seems more real.

So last night, thinking about what to write today, I started looking over possible pictures of our time in North America. You all came to mind and I thought, "These people do not want shots of Renita or me in meetings or Hannah or Noah in a Michigan swimming pool." Maybe you do, but I guess maybe I don't want to see them. Then I began looking over the images of Liberia, and I realized there are a bunch of shots that almost made it to the blog but for one reason or another-- e.g. they didn't fit the theme that week or there was something wrong with the quality, or there was a different pic that fit better-- they just didn't get in. So, here are a few pics that you never saw-- blogworthy but until now without a blog. Enjoy.
Next week: "Family Reunion(s)"

Our first few weeks here. Rainy season, and Lionel wears a water crown under the drain spout. Note the stare. Since it is rainy season Liberia, he's probably under there right now.

October 2005. The road from Rivercess with CHAL. (Look it up in the archives, you can see Yers Trooly waiting for these guys to haul the cab out of the mud.) This is typical of interior roads during the rainy season.

One day, Noah got it into his head to get shots of people jumping. This surreal piece is called "Nikki the Dog Stupified Yet Again By Human Behavior." The subjects are Victoria and Rachel.

Looking down upon a fishing boat in Mali.

Another Mali shot. The Reeds enjoying quiet moment.

Vera, the woman who cooks for us during the week and does our laundry, cooking for her own family late afternoon at home.

This may be the strangest billboard I have ever seen. I'm thinking the baby (note the five o'clock shadow) looks a tad like former president Charles Taylor.

One last shot of the Monk. This is her being angry. You won't like her when she's angry.

Hannah, in the midst of a Liberian-style, in your face, tell-it-like-you-see-it argument. You can actually see her speaking Liberian English.

Where our 300 friends from Barclayville drink. They call it their well. What would you call it?

Another Noah piece: "Sand Rain on Sand Dome via Enoch and Jackson."

We hear the pangolin is doing just fine. Hope to see her soon.

Meanwhile, back in the States, the Reeds are livin' large in the VanderStelt's guest cottage. Sponge Bob Square Pants blesses the children from the TV whist Renita networks.

Meet 'n Greet

It took me about a week to adjust to jet lag; the rest of the Reeds got used to the time difference much quicker. We are about a third of the way through our visit to the Americas. All of us are still finding adjustment to the world around us taking longer. As we try to figure out exactly what being here feels like and means, we will pass along the observations to you.

In the meantime, we are going, going, going. It makes life a roller coaster. On the down side of the ride, we are a bit tired because every day we are getting together for work meetings or seeing friends. On the up side, we get a rush out of everyone we meet. There are so many that we love and love us. So we leave the place we are staying droopy, then we get a big boost when we see the folks we are meeting, then we dip down again until the next meet n' greet. The pics below are some of the highlights of our first week.

Our friends the Katerbergs throw an open house just after we arrived. It was great to see a bunch of our friends and co-laborers, and we got a chance to tell 'em what's going on in Liberia.

The Katerbergs own a golf cart so Noah, Hannah and the other kids got a chance to do some wheelin'.

A few days later, Yers Trooly gets to meet with Calvin College social work chair Cheryl Brandsen and BSW instructor/friend Stacia Hoeksema with son. Discussing the future of the MPCHS BSW program. Soon we hope to "hang head" with the folks from Kuyper College, the other US school working with MPCHS.

Later in the week, we attended a conference hosted by CRWRC. There we met our old friends Zakka Chomock and John Orkar. Interestingly, they work in Nigeria, we work in Liberia, but we've never seen each other in either country. We met in Senegal, the last time we were together was in Mali (insert), and here we are in the USA.

Sunday, we went to our home church, Madison Square. This is one of three services. We gave 'em the five minute update, then I asked 'em to say "cheese."

After church, we got the biggest treat of all-- walking down the street to our old house, now owned by Stacia and Tom Hoeksema. Chatting with Ida Reid and Mabel Jones.

One of our deaest friends in this big old world. This is Glenda Quinn, our former next door neighbor, sharing an African fashion moment with Renita while Yers Trooly gloms on for attention.